When I learned of Wat Bang Phra just outside Bangkok, it sounded like exactly what I was looking for. The name translates to simply The temple of some monks, but naming temples isnt their specialty. Its been a traditional Sak Yant temple essentially since its creation. 100s of Thais go to get their blessings there each week. The Sak Yant is traditionally chosen by the monk giving the bamboo tattoo. He has a long list of protective symbols to choose from. Each symbol offers a different type of protection or blessing. He decides what best suits your needs, and will give it to you without any prior discussion. The positioning is determined as well though the majority will end up on ones back.
Upon arriving to the grounds, you should proceed to a booth outside the temple which is selling offerings. The offerings consist of some incense, flowers and candles, and a pack of menthol cigarettes. The total cost of this donation package was a whopping 50 Thai Baht (THB). You are encouraged to leave an additional donation with the offerings. If you see inside the bowl, the average Thai is leaving between 20-100 Thai Baht as a bonus alm/donation. We played it safe with an extra 100THB. These offerings will be donated to the temple, by placing them in a bowl inside the room with the monk doing the Sak Yant. Later, all the offerings are then brought back outside and resold to future visitors. Its actually a very smart business model, ensuring that the donations are consistent, allowing the Thais to make their offering, and being environmentally sustainable by reusing them.
Next is just the waiting game. Depending on how early you arrive, will determine how many people are in front of you. We counted 2 monks performing the Sak Yant throughout the day. Our monk had a line up of nearly 10 people in front of us, and we arrived at 9am roughly an hour after doors opened that day. That being said, you would never find a tattoo artist anywhere else who could have 10 people lined up for the same day. I was getting my Sak Yant tattoo by 11am, only 2 hours later!
You approach the monk having already taken off your shirt (or preparing your exposed back in a respectable way, if you are a woman and yes, the monks were giving Sak Yant to women). Most people had to lean over a triangular pillow, and then have a person on either side hold them down, and stretch the surface of skin where the Sak Yant is to be placed. The monk quickly and precisely guides the elongated piece of sharpened bamboo in the shape of the Sak Yant blessing, tapping it faster than hands should be able to move into your back. Im not going to lie.. it hurts. It hurts a lot more than a needle tattoo. With this in mind, though, it only lasted at most 15 mins. I practiced breathing techniques, meditation, counting sheep, ANYTHING to get my mind off the pain. It was pretty futile. The pain is sharp and deep, but its over quickly. Afterwards, my brother Taylor took a quick photo of my back to show me the new ink job. It was incredible! The detail and precision was something you might expect from a 3 hour tattoo in a shop somewhere. After a short lunch break, my brothers tattoo was just as quick! By the time we were leaving, mind you, the room was packed. I imagine thered be a lot of people who wouldnt be leaving with a Sak Yant that day Ill re-stress the importance of going as early as possible.. even if it means waking up at 5am.
We ended up getting matching Sak Yant protection. Its the Paed Tidt similar to a compass, this Sak Yant offers protection from the 8 directions. Its intended to give protection in whichever direction you are travelling (pretty handy in my line of work). For more information on this particular tattoo, heres a handy website which can explain it in full detail (along with other sak yant and their meanings).
http://www.thaiguidetothailand.com/magic-and-superstition/sak-yant-paed-tidt-eight-direction-yant/
For more photos from inside temple, and its grounds, please check out my Photo Essay!
For details on a festival in which people become possessed by these Sak Yant tattoos, visit this article on the Wai Kru Festival.
- My brother getting his Sak Yant
The mini bus should drop you off across the highway from a massive Big C shopping centre. You must cross a foot bridge across the highway, and turn left. Almost immediately you will be approached by motorcycle taxi guys and tuk tuk drivers. Your choice, though the motorcycle is a great experience (and cheaper) driving past the fields on your second leg of this journey. Its about a 20-25 mins ride further, and should cost about 120 baht if you go the route of the motorcycle taxi. They guessed why we were there, and should all know exactly where Wat Bang Phra is.
View Where Sidewalks End in a larger map
Transport total time: 1.5 hours
Transport total cost: 80+60 (we both took the same moto-taxi) = 140THB
Thats it. Leaving is almost easier. We walked out to the front gate and caught a local bus for 18 baht, which drove us to an area we could catch another minivan for another 60 baht each. That said.. the minivan dropped us off in the middle of Bangkok, on the wrong side of the river, and we had to take a taxi the rest of the way back. Its probably best to make sure they agree to exactly what station they will drop you off at prior to leaving.
Transport total time: 1.5 hours
Transport total cost: 18+60 (+50 for the taxi, but this shouldnt be necessary) = 78THB
There are no officially posted hours, though it is suggested to arrive quite early. I believe they aim to open doors around 8am each day, but this can also depend on the mood of the Tattoo Master. The cue fills quickly as well, and its a first come first serve basis. If you can arrive as closely to 8am as possible, you will have a very good chance of having your Sak Yant given that day. If you arrive around noon, there will probably already be such a big line up that you wont be able to get it done. In the chance that you can, youll probably end up waiting up to 5 hours as he gets through the group in front of you (and do you really want a tired monk giving your tattoo by hand?).
Health Risks
I tried researching this as much as possible prior to going. My results were fairly inconclusive. Though the bamboo does get sterilized with rubbing alcohol, Im not sure it would meet western standards. This being said, an exceptionally large percentage of Thais have this done. The spread of STDs and disease as a result of the Sak Yant are unconfirmed. In one article I read, it stated that unlike a tattoo needle, there is no opening for the blood/disease/virus to get trapped in. This greatly reduces any risk, when compared to regular tattoos. It does not eliminate the risk, mind you. Any decision to do get a Sak Yant must be done with this in mind. There is a risk involved. It seems to me, all the good things in life have similar risks, so you have to decide if this is one of those good things worth the risk.
Please Note: Travel inherently comes with an element of risk (just like crossing the road does). You are putting yourself in elements that are unfamiliar and foreign to your usual lifestyle and with that, become more susceptible to fall victim those who try to play off those unfamiliar to their local scams. There are also potential dangers in the environments to which you may not be accustomed to.
Please take extra care in travelling, ensure that you have adequate medical insurance (accidents seem to happen when you least expect them), and have let a trusted colleague, family member or friend know your whereabouts and activities.
Where Sidewalks End travel advises you to travel at your own risk, and to be extra aware of your surroundings (without letting it spoiling your time).
Transport total time: 3 hours
Transport total cost: 140+78 = 218THB
Total time at the temple: 3 hours (including 2 hour wait, getting Sak Yant, and having lunch)
Compulsory Offering to Wat Bang Phra (in exchange for the Sak Yant) = 50 THB
Total time for the day = 6 hours
Total cost for the day = 268 Thai Baht (roughly $9 USD)
Suggested Additional Offering to Wat Bang Phra (as a donation) = 100+ THB (roughly $3 USD)
It was an awesome day! It was fun, getting there with all the madness of trying to work it out, and uncertainty of going to the right place. The process of getting the offerings (and how comical it is that Menthol cigarettes were part of it), and then waiting in the musty room for hours as others each go through the same process. Getting the Sak Yant itself feels like an accomplishment being able to make it through the pain. It is an ancient tradition and its a very special feeling being part of it, in a way that is still quite off-the-beaten-path, and practiced by locals. I love that I was able to experience that with my brother, as well. Sharing the experience is something I would possibly suggest, as its really unique and will certainly strengthen any bond.
We offer a very personalized package where you are able to meet with an ajarn and discuss questions with them you may have about this ancient art. The studio is far more sanitized than traditional temple such as Wat Bang Phra, and you will be joined by a local Travel Guru who is knowledgable in the art of Sak Yant, who will be able to discuss the ancient art in great depth over an included meal, along with receiving a copy of the award winning book, Sacred Skin, signed and blessed by your Ajarn on the corresponding page to which he is found. This isnt your typical visit to a tattoo parlour.
For those who wish to have the ultimate experience, we also have close relations with the Authors of the book Sacred Skin. In this package, they may join you to discuss in full detail something to which they are incredibly close to, and are world leading experts in this field. Education in the art of Sak Yant, professional photos of the event, and of course the act of getting your yantra are the focus of this package. This option is of course only available on request, as the authors will not always be available due to other events in their schedules. Please request this package at least 2 weeks in advance of your anticipated date.
Want to witness people becoming possessed by the spirits of their Sak Yant in mass? Wai Kru festival at Wat Bang Phra allows you to do just that! Joined by one of the worlds leading experts in the art of Sak Yant, you will delve deep into the sub-culture of those blessed with this ancient, sacred skin-art.
Interested in having something customized exactly how you want it? Follow this link for our Choose Your Own Adventure Tours packages that are highly personalized and tailored at your request.
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